MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF FOR TOPSHOP.

Now, if there's one collaboration I've ever been excited for it's this one, Meadham Kirchhoff meets Topshop. In recent years Topshop has been caught in the main stream trap, straying from its roots in the extra-ordinary, swapping all goth everything for garish "geek" slogans. If there was anyone that could subvert this and reinstate Topshop's edge then Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff are definitely the men for the job. Meadham Kirchhoff are no strangers to the odd, the beautiful and the dysfunctional, three key themes that have the ability to replenish Topshop's cool status.
 The "Cherry" collection promises to turn glam rock on its head as only the Kings of Kitsch could whilst sticking to their guns creating clothes for every type of independent woman. Clothes for divas...designed by divas.

Excitement reaches fever pitch on topshop.com

JW ANDERSON AT LFW

JW ANDERSON: LFW'S DARLING.

For those of you who, like me, have been endlessly trawling social media websites will have come across a wave of virtual applause for JW Anderson's SS14 offering. For me this is the first time Anderson has grabbed my attention, the first time I've sat up and taken notice. 

 The collection is characterised by collaborations of  leather with pleather in the most aesthetically pleasing way, plummeting down over the models' fine form like a crystallised waterfall, capturing every particle of light. Garments exploring ground breaking silhouettes incorporating every fantastical technique imaginable, pleats grazing unadulterated flesh, knotted bows wrapped around the most feminine curves. Anderson's collection emphasises and explores the delicacy of new fabrics with a such a fascinating outcome that has bewitched LFW in its masses. This latest capsule left no stone unturned, Anderson presents his own interpretation of virtually every key trend seen down the catwalk this week in his own sophisticated language. Dark nude leathers transformed into structural triumphs juxtaposed by clean cut yellows and primary colours on backgrounds of bright white making up distorted floral prints. These matched with collarbone clinging camisoles in the same clinical white leaving the breast and backwards unrestricted and bare.  

Christopher Kane Resort Collection SS14

As one of the leading names in London's fashion scene Christopher Kane is forever upping his game, forever topping his last collection and with his latest presentation, Resort SS14 he definitely did not disappoint. The 36 piece capsule sprawls right through from the sexy, androgynous Geography teacher littered with black leather and sheer panels to the figure hugging sinister web of lace, resembling a virginal bridal veil at the other end of the scientifically inspired spectrum. Certainly living up to his reputation in producing the edgiest and most beautifully refined garments. Kane has utilised every key trend of the current and coming seasons and added a deliciously fresh and underplayed elaboration, peplums revitalised and co-ords computerised with graphical patterns. If there's one thing Kane does well it's breathing life back into over-used trends but making them five hundred and seventy three times better than before, adding a twist to the tale, Kane even said himself when asked whether British fashion history informed his work: "I think as a designer you absorb all sorts of pieces of history. I like to pick at things, but mostly I like to look forward." *  And I think this perfectly sums up the integrity of his Resort SS14 collection, Kane has involved all sorts of futuristic elements into this capsule yet referenced back to nature which gives a deep impression of how natural entities have been corrupted by technology and industry, nature too has been grabbed and been used to enhance the beauty of the human form, that of the female particularly celebrated throughout the collection from digitally generated mannequins decorating casual, cropped jersey sweaters to delicate webs of sensual,
red lace tracing and hanging from a woman's every outline. Everything in this collection is reminiscent of old school computing, huge blocks of primary colours and imagery of that ever so familiar fuzzy greeting screen on a first generation PC that ever computer geek has been pining to see since the day it was discontinued. Kane's resort collection has everything to make every type of human being weak at the knees.




*Excerpt taken from and interview with Kane featured in Hywel Davies' British Fashion Designers

By Martha Wragg

JONATHAN SAUNDERS.

This is a piece I wrote in September 2012, reviewing Jonathan Saunders' SS13 collection presentation at LFW. 

Jonathan Saunders, one of the biggest names in the industry presents to the world his Spring/Summer 2013 collection, creating vast waves throughout. With a launch party at London's Bistrotheque restaurant, packed out with its famously "hipster clientele", Saunders' new collection is inevitably LFW's biggest hit.
 The collection itself includes ready to wear garments ranging from dresses to coordinate suits. For me, the crowning jewel of this psychedelic collection is the showstopping, bold metallic co-ords, lined with horizontal and vertical stripes of brash (but rather wonderful) iridescent silver. The co ord made up of a modestly cropped tshirt top with a fantastically flattering circle hem skirt. The outlandish iridescents of the piece are perfectly balanced by the crisp white stripes that cut through the ripples of colour, providing a sophisticated twist to the playful and cosmic galactica theme.

 The next piece, a billowing maxi. Elegant yet bold, it encorporates the trend that has thundered through all forms, clothes, nails and of course hair. Every hipster's must have -dip dye. Used in its more sophisticated faded fish scale form Jonathan Saunders has created a delight for all. Coloured in off white and rose red hues it creates the perfect balance of day wear and evening wear, dressed on the catwalk casually with white cutout platform sandals and elegantly oversized circular sunglasses, complimented with dark plum rouge lips.

 A key theme that runs through the arteries of this collection is the metallic fish scale. Seen in the form of dresses, skirts and co-ords. An edgy pattern to feed the growing obsession with all things mermaid (see Azealia Banks and  the flavour of the year, Cara Delevingne for inspiration). Every print featured within this line is flawlessly presented, perhaps a given, after all Saunders received an MA  in printed textiles at the ever iconic Central Saint Martins, with his graduating collection landing him commissions at Alexander McQueen and consultancy posts at Chloe. Achieving a high level of prestige before many of his contemporaries. Such designs winning Saunders not only a huge celebrity following (the first lady Michelle Obama and Madonna are self confessed Saunders addicts)  but also many coveted fashion awards including the "Lancôme colour award" and "British Designer of the Year Award" at Elle Style Awards. Pretty impressive considering Saunders knew absolutely nothing about textile printing a mere 14 years ago in 1999, before studying the field  at Glasgow School of Arts in his native land of Scotland. 

 The collection does not fail to serve every type of figure, flattering for all shapes and all styles of woman. From the girls who opt for a more glamorous look to the women who enjoy a low key way of dressing there is something within Saunders' most glorious and well received collection for every girl.

 His catwalk show provides inspiration on how to create the perfect look which each piece, literally from head to toe. Models wear scraped back hair in high cuffed ponytails with natural coloured hair, darkest hues of noir included. Bare faces and dark lip shades perfectly toned down to give the collection the true attention it deserves.  A blinding contrast from his previous collections of very conservative, polite printed dresses, this collection transforms Saunders into the crafter of modernity and luxury. Is this a preview of things to come from the fabulous Mr Saunders? It seems that the whole of the fashion industry has everything crossed hopefully after all the thrills this collection created at its first airing in the Tate Modern's "Turbine Hall" during LFW. 

 Reviewing this collection gives one a true insight on how Jonathan Saunders has grown as a designer, here he is showcasing his raw talents, giving us a glimpse of his true colours leaving every blogger, designer, journalist and member of the "fash pack" hankering for more of this iridescent glory. Making us embrace our sci-fi side and discard any politely printed textile we own, Saunders is at the helm of this cosmic revolution. And quite frankly his next collection cannot arrive fast enough.

I decided to share this upon hearing the news that Jonathan Saunders is set to launch an outlet store from tomorrow; the 31st of July to Sunday  4th of August, and here's to hoping I can grab some of these beauties there!